Name: Acqua Gradita
Style: Wine Bar
Neighborhood: Ohashi (btw Shibuya and Sangenjaya)
Website: None, but I put it on my Google Maps here. Phone is 03-3461-0424.
At the izakaya I had mentioned I loved wine, so for our second stop we grabbed a cab over to Acqua Gradita, since Asami knows the master from his previous job.
This is a very nice wine bar in Japanese style, meaning you come in and sit at the counter where you chitchat with the master as well as with your friends. Every glass of wine is a new adventure, which begins with a negotiation with the master as to what kind of wine you feel like right now.
In truth, the wine list isn't that big -- if there's a group and you have a couple glasses each, you'll start to see the limits -- but the conversation always makes a brief stop worthwhile, especially since the selections mostly change over time.
The master (Tetsuya Fuijta) is pretty English-friendly, but as far as I could tell it wouldn't be right to say he speaks English. Expect to conduct yourself mostly in Japanese here.
Saturday, March 7, 2009
Being Okinawan in Shimokitazawa
Name: Champ-rouse / チャンプル〜
Style: Okinawan / 沖縄の料理
Neighborhood: Shimokitazawa / 下北沢
Website: None but Tablelog entry is here
Before I came to Japan I didn't even know there was such a thing as Okinawan cuisine. Now it's one of my favorite things to eat here! Last weekend I got to introduce my friend MJ to one of my regular Okinawan places, Champuru~ (they write it with a tilde to indicate the last sound is extra-long).
Okinawa used to be an quasi-independent kingdom called the Ryuukyuu Islands until the late 19th century (for comparison, it was only about 30 years later that Japan took control of Taiwan). The culture there has a lot of non-Japanese influence through Taiwan, various Polynesian ties, and China, and that shows in the cuisine. While a lot of the ingredients are similar Japanese food, there are also a lot of different elements (and as MJ pointed out, less shoyu overall). Because of the old name, Okinawan food is also called Ryuukyuu cuisine (琉球の料理).
The classic Okinawan dish is what the restaurant is named after: Goya Champuru. Goya is an extremely bitter melon that's common in Okinawan cuisine, and Goya Champuru is sliced bitter melon with seasoning, pork and eggs (when I get it, I ask if they can make it with fish to avoid the pork). It's yummy and warm, but not heavy like a nabemono. You can get Goya Champuru (frequently referred to as "Goya Jumble" by English speaker, although the word's origin is different) in a lot of izakaya in Japan, but Okinawan restaurants do it best.
Another classic item that's not on the printed menu, but is often available as a daily item, is sea grapes (that's a literal transation of the name: 海ぶどう / "umi budou"). If you don't speak Japanese, write that one down so you can ask for it. They're an edible seaweed that looks like a miniature bunch of grapes. They have a fascinating crunchy texture and are really fun to eat.
The only downside of Champuru~ is that it's a bit difficult if you don't speak Japanese. I almost always chat with the staff to find out what's on special that day and make most of the choices from that (the last time we got not one but two awesome tofu dishes), with the result that I don't really remember what any of them were called. And, the staff doesn't speak English, so it's best to go with someone who's at least at the level of negotiating food orders.
Shimokitazawa is one of my favorite neighborhoods, so I'm grateful to Makino-san for introducing me to this place. If you're thirsty afterwards, be sure to head over to Ushi-tora for a Japanese craft beer!
Style: Okinawan / 沖縄の料理
Neighborhood: Shimokitazawa / 下北沢
Website: None but Tablelog entry is here
Before I came to Japan I didn't even know there was such a thing as Okinawan cuisine. Now it's one of my favorite things to eat here! Last weekend I got to introduce my friend MJ to one of my regular Okinawan places, Champuru~ (they write it with a tilde to indicate the last sound is extra-long).
Okinawa used to be an quasi-independent kingdom called the Ryuukyuu Islands until the late 19th century (for comparison, it was only about 30 years later that Japan took control of Taiwan). The culture there has a lot of non-Japanese influence through Taiwan, various Polynesian ties, and China, and that shows in the cuisine. While a lot of the ingredients are similar Japanese food, there are also a lot of different elements (and as MJ pointed out, less shoyu overall). Because of the old name, Okinawan food is also called Ryuukyuu cuisine (琉球の料理).
The classic Okinawan dish is what the restaurant is named after: Goya Champuru. Goya is an extremely bitter melon that's common in Okinawan cuisine, and Goya Champuru is sliced bitter melon with seasoning, pork and eggs (when I get it, I ask if they can make it with fish to avoid the pork). It's yummy and warm, but not heavy like a nabemono. You can get Goya Champuru (frequently referred to as "Goya Jumble" by English speaker, although the word's origin is different) in a lot of izakaya in Japan, but Okinawan restaurants do it best.
Another classic item that's not on the printed menu, but is often available as a daily item, is sea grapes (that's a literal transation of the name: 海ぶどう / "umi budou"). If you don't speak Japanese, write that one down so you can ask for it. They're an edible seaweed that looks like a miniature bunch of grapes. They have a fascinating crunchy texture and are really fun to eat.
The only downside of Champuru~ is that it's a bit difficult if you don't speak Japanese. I almost always chat with the staff to find out what's on special that day and make most of the choices from that (the last time we got not one but two awesome tofu dishes), with the result that I don't really remember what any of them were called. And, the staff doesn't speak English, so it's best to go with someone who's at least at the level of negotiating food orders.
Shimokitazawa is one of my favorite neighborhoods, so I'm grateful to Makino-san for introducing me to this place. If you're thirsty afterwards, be sure to head over to Ushi-tora for a Japanese craft beer!
Down-home Izakaya, in the shadow of Midtown
Name: Sushi Izakaya Matsu-chan / すし居酒屋松ちゃん
Style: Izakaya
Neighborhood: Roppongi / 六本木
Website: None but Yahoo Gourmet page is here
My friend Jill was in town a few weeks ago and some acquaintances took her to an izakaya she was raving about. I tried to meet up with them but due to some cellphone troubles on Jill's end we didn't connect. Fortunately, I met up with her acquaintances for a night out and we went back to Sushi Izakaya Matsu-chan.
This is a classic Japanese izakaya, with cheap prices no less, even though it's in the middle of Roppongi (it's very near Tokyo Midtown). It definitely is not a tourist place, most of the customers were Sabiro-wearing Sararimen, and I didn't notice any other gaijin at all on a busy Friday night. And when I say cheap, I mean pretty cheap: on Friday night draft beers were 290yen for a good-sized glass; if you come between 5-9pm on weeknights, they run a special for 180yen!
The food we had was all good, classic Izakaya fare like karaage (Japanese fried chicken), agedashi tofu, edamame, saba (mackeral) shioyaki. The standout, though, was wakadori yuzu shozou yaki, grilled young chicken with spicy yuzu sauce. Completely yummy!
The place is very busy on prime hours Friday and Saturday so you might want to make a reservation: phone number is 03-5775-7707. Be sure to have a link to the map as well: this place is really, really difficult to find if you haven't been there before. It's on a side street of a side street, even though you're only 2 minutes from Midtown!
Style: Izakaya
Neighborhood: Roppongi / 六本木
Website: None but Yahoo Gourmet page is here
My friend Jill was in town a few weeks ago and some acquaintances took her to an izakaya she was raving about. I tried to meet up with them but due to some cellphone troubles on Jill's end we didn't connect. Fortunately, I met up with her acquaintances for a night out and we went back to Sushi Izakaya Matsu-chan.
This is a classic Japanese izakaya, with cheap prices no less, even though it's in the middle of Roppongi (it's very near Tokyo Midtown). It definitely is not a tourist place, most of the customers were Sabiro-wearing Sararimen, and I didn't notice any other gaijin at all on a busy Friday night. And when I say cheap, I mean pretty cheap: on Friday night draft beers were 290yen for a good-sized glass; if you come between 5-9pm on weeknights, they run a special for 180yen!
The food we had was all good, classic Izakaya fare like karaage (Japanese fried chicken), agedashi tofu, edamame, saba (mackeral) shioyaki. The standout, though, was wakadori yuzu shozou yaki, grilled young chicken with spicy yuzu sauce. Completely yummy!
The place is very busy on prime hours Friday and Saturday so you might want to make a reservation: phone number is 03-5775-7707. Be sure to have a link to the map as well: this place is really, really difficult to find if you haven't been there before. It's on a side street of a side street, even though you're only 2 minutes from Midtown!
Friday, March 6, 2009
Katsu, and so close to work!
Name: Daigo 大五
Style: Tonkatsu 豚カツ
Neighborhood: Shirokane 白金
Website: None
So I finally tried the Tonkatsu place near work. Man, I've been missing out! Daigo is a tonkatsu/steak restaurant about 7-8 minutes' walk from Polygon's offices. Their lunch specials are 800 yen for the Chicken Katsu (that's what I got, since I don't eat pork) or 1000 yen for the Tonkatsu. It's the standard Japanese katsu set, with sauce and lots of cabbage on the side, but it's well-done. The miracle of good Japanese fried food persists: even though katsu is deep-fried (that's pretty much what the word means), it's not particularly greasy. You can experience the same thing at a good Tempura place here as well.
Anyway, Daigo is a strong lunch recommendation. I've heard dinner (including their steaks) is really good as well, although as with many Japanese restaurants dinner is quite a bit more expensive than lunch.
Since they don't have a website, here's some more information on Daigo:
Address: Tokyo-to Minato-ku Shirokane 1-25-21
住所: 東京都港区白金１−２５−２１
Phone / 電話番号: 03-3444-2941
Hours: 11:30-14:00, 17:30-21:00
Style: Tonkatsu 豚カツ
Neighborhood: Shirokane 白金
Website: None
So I finally tried the Tonkatsu place near work. Man, I've been missing out! Daigo is a tonkatsu/steak restaurant about 7-8 minutes' walk from Polygon's offices. Their lunch specials are 800 yen for the Chicken Katsu (that's what I got, since I don't eat pork) or 1000 yen for the Tonkatsu. It's the standard Japanese katsu set, with sauce and lots of cabbage on the side, but it's well-done. The miracle of good Japanese fried food persists: even though katsu is deep-fried (that's pretty much what the word means), it's not particularly greasy. You can experience the same thing at a good Tempura place here as well.
Anyway, Daigo is a strong lunch recommendation. I've heard dinner (including their steaks) is really good as well, although as with many Japanese restaurants dinner is quite a bit more expensive than lunch.
Since they don't have a website, here's some more information on Daigo:
Address: Tokyo-to Minato-ku Shirokane 1-25-21
住所: 東京都港区白金１−２５−２１
Phone / 電話番号: 03-3444-2941
Hours: 11:30-14:00, 17:30-21:00
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